We are in France and have been since the 10th. It is glorious in Bourgogne, the heart of French wine country and where the Romans first brought those wonderful grapes so long ago.
The flight over was not as bad as it was in 2006. Air Canada was terrific. We flew from North Carolina to DCA (the other airport in DC) to Montreal to Charles de Gaulle. Customs was a snap, we think because we went through Canada.
I actually managed to get a few hours sleep on the plane. Even more amazing, I got over seven hours sleep the night before, somewhat of a record for me, especially just before a trip as I try to make sure I have not forgotten to do anything before our departure.
The bags came off the conveyor belt about the same time we arrived at baggage claim, so we picked up our diesel car and headed south to Beaune. The Google directions were excellent and kept us from getting lost in the rabbit warren of roads, avenues, and highways of Paris.
On the way, we stopped at one of our favorite wineries to see if it would be alright to bring our workshop there for photography. Two years ago when we were there, we had done portraits of the family, and I had made prints for them as a surprise. They were delighted, and it was fun to chat and catch up.
For the rest of the trip to Beaune, we ran in and out of driving rainstorms, the kind that force many people to stop along the side of the highway. We just slowed way down. Our rental car was brand new, only 15 kilometers on it, so tires and traction were not an issue. Between storms, it was sunny and beautiful (see one of the images below).
Once in Montagny-les-Beaune, we returned to the same hotel at which we stayed two years ago. Florence, the proprietor, was as charming and helpful as ever, and we greeted each other like old friends. Indeed, with all our correspondence back and forth, not to mention our numerous conversations on our last visit, we are friends.
We headed into Beaune to get some maps at the tourism office. In the same building was wonderful exhibit fashionable clothing and accessories made entirely of brown paper. It was really amazing and whimsical, as well.
Our favorite restaurant in Montagny-les-Beaune was closed until Friday, as the owners were on vacation. That changed our plans, so we headed over to one of the little villages that was on our list for our workshop and dropped off some more prints. The vintner and his helper were delighted and remembered our photographing them before.
Once again, we got permission to go on his land and as the sun set, we made some photographs looking across the rows of grape vines down at the town as the lights came on. It was time for a bottle of wine and dinner, and we found a lovely little restaurant in a 17th century building. Not only was the food delicious, but the service more than first class. And all for a special that included some of the traditional foods of Bourgogne, oeufs poached in red wine, boeuf Bourgignon, etc. And the wine, well, when you are in one of the towns known for its 1re cru wines, you cannot go wrong. Our bottle was superb, and when you think what it would have cost in the States, a real bargain.
The next couple of days, we explored and found some great new locations, as well as some that were great for us photographically, but impractical for a workshop, either because the footing was too dangerous or the drive between locations too far, or…
There was the wonderful round barn reflected in the mill pond (too far), the cascades (footing too dangerous after the rains), the chateau (too far with not enough on the way), the little village with the charming gentleman who took us under his wing (perfect), the larger wine town (also a photographic feast), and so forth and so on.
In the little village, the lovely gentleman told us about “les cascades” as well as the history of the town. The river that ran right through the town was as clear as one could imagine, and a little of it was diverted into a shallow trough at the river’s edge. Our self-appointed host explained that he remembered thirty or so years ago when people still washed their clothes there!
Last night, after a full day, we arrived back at the hotel to find one of our workshop participants had just arrived. Since he was without a car, we invited him to join us for supper in town. We had a delightful and fun supper, then walked around Beaune a bit before returning to the hotel to he could collapse after his long night and day of travel from Colorado.
I love the breakfasts here — all sorts of goodies, including fresh fruit, yogurts, confitures, baguettes and croissants, cereals, jambon et fromage, that wonderful coffee that one can only find in France… Life is good!
We start our workshop today and look forward to showing everyone our favorite places, sharing our favorite vintners, and helping them all make stronger photographs. Some of them profess to be rank beginners, but I suspect they are too modest in their self effacement.
You will find more photos than the ones below at my special gallery.
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