Preparations

Hmmm, where do I begin?

Well, surprise, Yvette and Nick arrived on the terrace for breakfast. Their flight had been delayed, so they got to sleep in. But they said they had so enjoyed their evening last night at Turi’s. Apparently, they closed the place down!

We all enjoyed the magnificent view that greets us every morning. Mt. Etna, puffing away, taking a rest after her activity a month or so back.

We were hoping that she would still have a bright lava flow, but we missed again, third time in a row!

Still, it was probably a good thing, since chunks the size of grapefruits fell on the terrace and as far north as Messina close to the northeast part of Sicily.

It was breakfast as usual at Hotel Taodomus. Julia always working her magic. What you do not see here are the fresh crepes, omelettes, and eggs prepared in multiple ways.

Meanwhile, Arnie and I had a couple of errands to run. And we were due at Osteria Nero d’Avola around 12:30.

First, though, we went down to Trevelyan Gardens, a marvelous park and gardens situated cliffside and overlooking the Bay of Taormina.

The light was hot, so I looked for natural fill light. First, this doorway that originally must have opened up to firmer footing! Or perhaps it had been a ceiling-to-floor window with a wrought-iron railing. It mattered not, as I loved the light.

Then, some walkway edges caught my eye.

After all the up and down steep hillsides, we needed a break. On the Piazza IX Aprile, just down the Corso Umberto from our hotel, we sat in the shade, sipping water, and watching the passers-by. This is one of the favorite passtimes of so many who live in and visit Taormina.

We were to meet Turi, Pietro, and the others at Osteria Nero d’Avola. A Japanee team was doing a70-80-page guide to Sicily. Turi’s restaurant was going to be featured along with Frank Cornelissen’s wines. We had been invited to meet Frank with a view to visiting his winery on the slopes of Mt. Etna with our group. We thought we might get to have sip or two of wine. Silly us!

As the Japanese photographer was working his magic with the various plates of food, many of them made their way to our table where Frank, his wife Aki, two small children, Pietro and we were enjoying conversation. We got to also partake of Turi’s wonders.

There were breaded anchovies and other delicacies, several different kinds of olives, sun-dried tomatoes soaked in olive oil, and for me, because I am gluten-free, ceviche — prociutto
a white fish, some prosciutto, both sliced paper-thin — and other items. Delicious! Paired with some of Frank’s wines, this was a very special lunch. We even had another lemon salad. And yes, those are the sweet lemons in the basket.Turi also has a plentiful supply of garlic that he uses generously, but never so it overpowers the food.We thought we were done. Again, silly us. Plates of fresh, rare tuna appeared. Tenderer than one could imagine. More wine, then a light cream dessert. I know that doesn’t sound light, but it was, and sprinkled with pistachios, to boot.

More glasses, this time filled with a magnificent after-dinner wine. It reminded me of a Portuguese sherry, but smoother and more complex.

“Uncle,” we all thought.

It was time to take our leave when a woman came up the stairs bearing a large basket of mushrooms. Mushrooms and chestnuts gathered in the forest may be Turi’s first love. He buried his nose in them, savoring their aroma. Guess what’s going to be on the menu tonight?

And for us, meanwhile, it really was time to go. Lots of good food and wine, great conversation, and promise of some wonderful days ahead, including a visit to Frank’s vineyard and dinner with him at a local, Etna trattoria. Another Tutti Turi Tour, and who knows from there?

* * * * * * * * * *

We did the usual catching up on e-mails, quickly followed by a serious nap.

Our first two participants were due in soon.

We had heard nothing. Where were they? It was all a mystery. We left a message for them at the hotel and went down to Piazza IX Aprile to watch the scene, always fun. We sat at the railing by the cliff’s edge, watching for our friends to appear.

No one.

It was time for dinner, so we went back up the hill to leave detailed instructions.

“Click … click … click … click …”

Arnie and I both looked at our cameras, Clearly, one of us was doing some butt shots. ‘Twas I, and as I was deleting them, I found this one that I thought was fun. Arnie, walking faster than he ever has!

As usual, we were greeted warmly at the restaurant. We ordered, hoping our friends would arrive in time to join us. Finally, the hotel called to say something about their arriving at 10:00. As we finally found out in an e-mail, they must have been quite delayed, as they were just landing in Catania, the Sicilian airport, a bit before 10. There was no way they would be able to join us, so after some messaging and e-mails, we arranged for a bag to take back to the hotel. The lemon salad, two desserts, some utensils, some after-dinner wine, should keep them somewhat happy, and we’ll have to catch up with them at breakfast.

Meanwhile, we enjoyed our dinner, with fresh bread dipped in olive oil. This one was a peppery variety.

I slipped into the kitchen and grabbed a few shots.

Cristina, knowing my gluten intolerance, had not only baked me two little rolls, but created a beautiful strawberry dessert. It was both beautiful and perfect, and she was so sweet to do it!

Life is good.

Tomorrow, most of the rest of the group will arrive.

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